Where’s the grain?

The results to drape from moving the grainline from front to bias.

Sometimes you get an idea in your head and you just push on ahead.  Maybe it’ll work out, maybe not.  I stubbornly wanted to make a Hollyburn skirt out of some denim I’ve had stashed for a bit.  What’s nicer than a denim skirt to knock about in during the summer?  Well I’d bought the denim with a straight skirt in mind and Hollyburn is a full skirt.  Hmm.

My skirt with Center Front on the straight grain.

Since I didn’t have enough fabric to make the skirt as laid out on the pattern sheet (with the CF on the bias) I laid it out so the center front (CF) and center back (CB) seams were on the straight grain.  I have enough pattern making under my belt that I knew this would change the way the skirt would drape and fall.  But what the hell, go for it.  I did look out my pattern making text and saw that changing the front and back grainlines would make the skirt flare out more at the sides than the original layout.  I used a medium weight non-stretch denim with some rayon in it (judging from the fraying!) so I thought this might be ok.

As you can see above from the text illustration, Grainline 1 is CF on the straight grain of the fabric.  The drape “flares toward side and side front”.  You can see in my skirt that this is how the drape falls.  My skirt has a cone of drape between the front and side and flares out at the side.

CF is twisted to my left hip and the CB is on my right hip. Pocket is front and center.

I then wanted to see the drape had I laid out the skirt as the pattern indicated with the front and back seams on bias, which would be more like Grainline 3 illustrated above.  I just twisted my skirt round so the center front was at the left side seam and the side seam was in the front.  You can see how the cones of drape move (it’s easier to see on photo right since the seams don’t get in the way as much).  The drape now flares towards the front and side.  It also sits closer to the body and to my eye more flattering to wear.  I mean there was a reason Tasia drafted the pattern on the grainlines that she did!

So does this mean I won’t wear this skirt or wear it pulled sideways?  No, I’ll wear it.  I stubbornly went ahead with making it from my too small piece of denim and I think it’s a bit too flare-y. Does it look uber weird?  No, but I do plan on unearthing some linen from the stash to make it properly.  I’m trying to get through some stash so I won’t buy more denim until I get some already owned fabric used up.

So my first go round with Sewaholic Hollyburn skirt is an overall go.  My stubbornness caused the flare to appear as such, but I did find out that this pattern fits me well and is as wonderfully drafted as all the Sewaholic patterns I’ve previously used.  I’m calling this a wearable muslin and moving on.  Stay cool!


4 responses

  1. I had no idea there was such a science behind it. But you know, nobody else but you will know the difference. Besides, it’s not like you are standing still, the skirt naturally moves.

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